To make a cordon bleu, a piece of meat – usually a veal or pork loin cut – is pounded flat and either sliced open into a pocket or layered as two slices. Ham and a good melting cheese (in Switzerland often Gruyère, Emmentaler or Appenzeller) go in between. The edges are pressed firmly together or secured with toothpicks so the cheese does not leak out while frying. Then comes the classic breading: flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs.
The cordon bleu is fried in plenty of hot clarified butter or oil over medium heat, so the crust turns crisp and the meat cooks through without the cheese burning. Depending on thickness this takes about three to five minutes per side. An even, not-too-high temperature is key – otherwise the crust darkens while the centre stays cold. It is drained briefly and served at once, while the cheese is still stringy.
In Switzerland the cordon bleu is a down-to-earth restaurant and tavern classic and a fixture on the menus of many country inns. It suits any season, appeals to families and meat lovers, and is usually served with fries, pasta or seasonal vegetables. A lemon wedge and a green salad are the customary accompaniments.
What to look for: a good cordon bleu has a dry, crisp crust that is not greasy, and cheese that genuinely flows when you cut in. Portions are often large – in some places the cutlet covers the whole plate. If you prefer something finer, choose the veal version; pork is the cheaper alternative.
As a main course in a Swiss restaurant a cordon bleu costs roughly CHF 28 to 42 depending on the meat and the establishment, and more in upmarket venues using veal (guide price, no guarantee).