Risotto uses starchy short-grain rice such as Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. First, finely chopped onion or shallot is softened in butter or olive oil until translucent, then the rice is briefly toasted ('tostatura') until the grains turn slightly glassy. A splash of white wine is cooked off, after which hot stock is added a ladle at a time – always topping up only when the previous liquid is almost absorbed, stirring regularly. This stirring releases the starch and makes the dish creamy.
After about 16 to 20 minutes the rice is 'al dente': soft outside, still with a slight bite at the core. Finally comes the 'mantecatura' – the pan is pulled off the heat and cold butter and grated Parmesan are stirred in, giving the risotto its last creamy sheen. A good risotto is 'all'onda', that is flowing in waves, not stiff or sticky. It is served at once, as it thickens on standing.
Risotto can be varied endlessly: classically as risotto alla Milanese with saffron (golden yellow), with porcini, with seafood, with pumpkin in autumn or with seasonal vegetables. In Italian-speaking Switzerland (Ticino), risotto is a regional classic, often enriched with Merlot or luganighe (sausage). It works as a starter (smaller portion) or a main course and is a warming dish for autumn and winter, though light summer versions are possible too.
What to look for: a restaurant risotto is ideally made fresh, which takes around 20 minutes – some places therefore state a waiting time. Be wary of versions that seem too firm or overcooked; that suggests pre-cooking. If you want it vegetarian, check for vegetable stock rather than meat stock.
In a restaurant a risotto as a main course costs roughly CHF 22 to 34 depending on the ingredients; versions with porcini, saffron or seafood are correspondingly dearer (guide price, no guarantee).