For a cheese fondue, grated cheese is melted slowly with white wine, a little garlic and a dash of Kirsch, and bound with cornflour so the mixture stays creamy and smooth. Regional blends are common in Switzerland – the best known is 'Moitié-Moitié', half Gruyère and half Vacherin Fribourgeois. Depending on the region, Appenzeller or Emmentaler may be added too. A little freshly ground pepper and nutmeg round it off.
At the table the caquelon sits on a burner with a small flame so the cheese stays supple and does not scorch. Guests spear cubes of bread (ideally a firmer white bread with crust) on long fondue forks and draw them through the cheese in figure-of-eight movements – the stirring stops the cheese and wine from separating. It is important to stir down to the bottom now and then, so that at the end the 'grandmother' or 'Chäschruschte' forms: a crisp crust on the bottom of the pot that is regarded as a delicacy.
Cheese fondue is above all a winter and social dish, on many Swiss restaurant menus from autumn to spring, often from two people upwards. It suits cosy gatherings with family and friends. Traditionally it is accompanied by white wine or warm black tea – cold drinks are avoided, as they are said to make the cheese harder to digest. Small gherkins and pickled onions serve as a tangy side.
What to look for: the cheese should flow creamily and not turn lumpy or oily. If a guest loses their bread in the pot, some tables keep a playful 'forfeit' custom. People sensitive to lactose often tolerate matured hard cheese well, as it contains very little lactose.
In a restaurant cheese fondue usually costs about CHF 28 to 36 per person; ready-made fondue blends from the supermarket are much cheaper, around CHF 8 to 12 per portion (guide prices, no guarantee).