A good beef tartare uses lean, sinew-free high-quality beef, classically fillet or rump. It is finely chopped or scraped by hand – not put through a mincer, which destroys the texture and creates more surface for bacteria. The seasoning is the heart of it: typically egg yolk, finely chopped onion and shallot, capers, cornichons, parsley, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, salt and pepper. Some restaurants dress the tartare at the table to the guest's taste, others serve it already seasoned.
Because the meat stays raw, freshness, hygienic handling and an unbroken cold chain are central. The meat is chopped and seasoned only shortly before serving, so it does not oxidise and turn grey. Tartare is served well chilled, often shaped into a quenelle or ring, with a raw egg yolk on top. The usual sides are toasted bread or crisp fries and butter. It is not cooked – the 'preparation' consists of cutting and seasoning.
Beef tartare works as an elegant starter (smaller portion) or a light main course (larger portion with a side). It is high in protein and low in carbohydrate and suits any season, but is often chosen as a refined opener or a light lunch. In Switzerland tartare is common in brasseries, bistros and upmarket restaurants; some venues are known for their tableside-prepared tartare.
What to look for: anyone avoiding raw meat or raw egg (for example during pregnancy or with a weakened immune system) should skip tartare. Good tartare tastes fresh, evenly seasoned and not musty; the meat should be bright red and tender. The heat and seasoning can usually be adjusted on request.
As a starter, beef tartare costs about CHF 20 to 28 in a Swiss restaurant, and as a main with a side around CHF 34 to 52, and more in upmarket venues (guide price, no guarantee).